Remembrance Sunday 2018


  It was a cold, crispy day in Harrogate and autumn leaves carpeted the Stray. One man’s greed engulfed Sri Lanka – the land of my birth, in the most serious constitutional crisis since independence from. British rule in 1948. It was also my birthday but there was no mood for celebrations. As tradition demands,…

The Bottomless Well


    The Nilavarai well in Jaffna, in arid northern Sri Lanka, is said to be bottomless. It provides an endless supply of fresh water even during severe droughts. Legend has it that the well was created by the Hindu god Rama by shooting an arrow in to the ground to provide fresh drinking water…

Casuarina Beach


  The best sandy beach in Jaffna, Casuarina is in Karainagar, on Karativu Island in northern Sri Lanka, about 20 km from Jaffna town. Ponnalai Causeway (AB17) connects the island to the mainland. Casuarina trees form a coastal forest next to the beach. There are changing rooms, a fresh water well and a cafe on…

Jaffna Fort


  Jaffna Fort was first built by the Portuguese in 1618. Due to ‘miracles’ attributed to the statue of Virgin Mary in the church inside the fort, the Portuguese named Jaffna Fort the Fortress of Our Lady of Miracles of Jafanapatão (Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Milagres de Jafanapatão). The fort was captured by the…

Jaffna Public Library


  Jaffna Public Library was built in many stages starting from 1933 from a modest private collection. The library is also a repository of archival material written in palm leaf manuscripts, original copies of regionally important historic documents and newspapers that were published hundreds of years ago in the Jaffna peninsula. it became one of the biggest…

Road To Jaffna – 2018


  Eighteen of us left Colombo at dawn in a little green bus in a little green bus, crossed the Kelani River – the fourth longest river in the country at 145 km, and took the A3 expressway to Katunayaka. Jaffna is 400 km north of Colombo and we would be on the road for…

48 hrs. at Corbet’s Rest


Corbet’s Rest is a simple but well run collection of holiday chalets in the Knuckles Range of central Sri Lanka, ideal for mountain hikes, birdwatching or simply doing nothing…   The drive from Kandy past Katugastota and Teldeniya is on a good road. We skirt Victoria Reservoir with Great Cormorants on its rocky islets and…

Meemure


Meemure is an ancient, remote village in the Knuckles Mountains of central Sri Lanka   Pack-bulls used to be the only mode of transport to Meemure up to 2004. Today, an off-road vehicle is needed to negotiate the narrow, twisting mountain track to the tiny village 324 m up in the Knuckles Range in the shadow…

48 hrs. at Lavanga


  Lavanga is a seaside resort and spa at Hikkaduwa in Southern Sri Lanka   “Welcome to Lavanga” the young woman in a bright green saree said and ushered me in to the dimly lit, book lined ‘library.’ A young man brought me the traditional welcome glass of papaya juice. Two young men took my bags…